Harare

 

Zimbabwe's capital city of Harare is a metropolitan poster-child for the prosperity of post-Independence Zimbabwe. Since the nation gained its independence in 1980, the city, with its population of over 1,600,000, has been transformed from colonial outpost to capital metropolis. A prime example of a modern African city, Harare is a mosaic of high-rise office blocks and well-preserved, historic buildings. Amongst the concrete and glass structures, there is an ample supply of green lungs - tree-filled parks and other open spaces, which lend this city its vibrant, friendly character.

The city borrows its name from the first Shona inhabitants of the marshy flats near The Kopje (inselberg) on which it stands today, who were themselves called Ne-Harawa after the regional chief - Haarare (one who does not sleep). The Mbare people, under the rule of the lower Chief Mbare, controlled the kopje itself. When Chief Gutsa later came to settle in what is now the suburb of Hillside, the inevitable conflict between the two groups, resulted in the killing of Chief Mbare. The Mbare people, moved away, ultimately destined for the rugged western plateau, just north of the Zambezi Valley. Gutsa's success at small-scale combat was no match however for the subsequent intruders.

11 September 1890 saw the arrival of the Major Frank Johnson led British South Africa Company's (BSAC) pioneer column, and their discovery of Gutsa's kopje. Two days later, the Union Jack was raised at the present site of Africa Unity Square and the anticipated settlement was named Fort Salisbury. The Mashonaland area was believed to be favourable for agriculture, a great source of gold and ripe for expropriation by the colonists. The land was subdivided and the civilian members of the column given 1250 hectares of land and fifteen mining claims each.

The first Fort Salisbury was a marshy place and floods hampered its early years of growth when the rains came. The government decided to relocate the entire settlement to the higher ground to the north east of their environs, however those entrenched in the kopje area remained. While in the first months, the settlement grew haphazardly; the new settlement was later planned into a grid-iron plan of streets and lots, which still define the street layout of modern Harare.

Under increasing pressure to provide cheap labour and pay hut tax to the settlers, the African population was beginning to feel the impact of their contact with the imperial world. In 1896 the increasingly agitated Shona and Ndebele peoples, rose up against their adversaries in a nationwide armed struggle that became known as the First Chimurenga. In Salisbury the threatened citizens, remained in a fortified camp for six weeks at one stage. The settlers' superior firepower proved too overwhelming for the indigenous people, who were defeated by 1897. The leaders of the uprising, spirit mediums Mbuya Nehanda and Sekuru Kaguvi, were captured, tried and hung in 1898, at what is now the site of the New Reserve Bank. Their names and likenesses can be found on numerous buildings, plaques and sculptures in modern Zimbabwe.

The railway came to Salisbury in May 1899. In 1913, Cleveland Dam made a piped water supply possible, and Seke Dam followed. A locomotive steam boiler was installed to provide electricity - initially for 180 houses, and in 1914, two diesel engines were installed in a new power station, and the last oil street lamps were replaced by electricity. By 1935, light industries and factories were springing up. The town kept up with architectural trends, and the local architecture mimicked that of Europe through the ages. In the early years two architects - whose careers overlapped - rose to prominence and left an indelible mark on the architectural make-up of the city. Indeed, some of their buildings still stand today, a significant number of them protected by acts of parliament.

The greatest proponent of neoclassical architecture in the territory was James Alfred Cope-Christie FRIBA (1870-1953), whose works included among others, Arnold (1910), Union (1910), Standard Bank (1911), Founders (1903) and Edward Buildings (1936). As his career neared its end, his prime place on the architectural scene was inherited by William D'Arcy Cathcart FRIBA (1885-1970). His style of neoclassicism was rather different from that of Cope-Christie and based more on early English Georgian architecture. Cathcart's many commissions include, N.E.M House (1930), Town House (1933), Prime Ministers office (1926) and 'Limbe Lodge' (1929).

The onset of the Second World War provided a tremendous setback to the local economy and building work ground almost to a halt. After the war, tobacco boomed as a crop, and newfound "barons" hired permanent suites in Meikles Hotel. Construction again picked up and in 1945 National Building and housing board was set up to provide housing, which was in demand at the time by soldiers returning from war. By the time of its demise in 1953, the Board itself, hand constructed over 2000 dwellings and experimented with a number of innovative materials.

In contrast, numerous multi storey brick 'walk-up' hostels with minimal shared facilities, each capable of housing 1000 single men in shared rooms were constructed in the next 15 years for African workers, primarily in Mbare. More townships were developed on the periphery of the city, in repetitive layouts of identical small low cost housing 'structures' with minimal outside space for social activity - in appalling comparison with the spacious gardens and houses of the 'European suburbs'.

Salisbury became Federal Capital, at the birth of the Federation of Rhodesian and Nyasaland in 1953. Over 80 high rise office blocks with ground floor shops were constructed between then and 1965, within the CBD. Most of these buildings were restricted to between 8 and 12 stories by strict town planning controls, and were predominately of reinforced concrete construction. During this period, notable buildings like Charter House (1958), Pearl Assurance House (1959), Livingston House (1960) and John Boyne House (1964) came to grace the city skyline. Following UDI in 1965, construction activity slowed down until by the late 1970's at the height of the Second Chimurenga (Liberation War), it almost came to a halt.

Independence came on April 18th, 1980, and the city that is now Harare has burgeoned into a colourful metropolis. A wide variety of structures, monuments and buildings - a lasting testament to its history, tell a story of the trials and tribulations of this city. Post independence, has seen an increase in diversity of building styles and influences, some of which have borne the brunt of public criticism.

Karigamombe Centre the tallest building in the country, the 'alien-like' Sheraton Hotel, Pegasus House, and in more resent years the New Reserve Bank, the Kopje Project and Noczim have brought about mixed reactions. Yet, the award winning Causeway Post Office, Hurudza House, Finsure House, Eastgate Building and Southampton Life Centre conjure up emotions that are more positive. Beyond the inner city, suburban commercial developments have come to prominence including the renowned Westgate and Borrowdale Village shopping Malls.

Beyond all the modernity, Harare has many untamed reserves. Epworth is an amazing jigsaw of untouched gravity defying granite boulders, in serene natural surroundings. Almost within, a stone's throw of the city centre, the Mukuvisi Woodlands provide 265 hectares of natural flora and fauna, while a short distance way, the Chapungu kraal and Shona village is an attempt to create a cultural theme park. The streets lined with mature jacaranda trees; give the city its traditional purple glow in the late months of the year.

Harare is has great cosmopolitan atmosphere, punctuated by the modern pleasures common to any large city, and yet garnished with a glow all to its own. From the expansive Harare gardens, and luscious greenery of the CBD centre, Africa Unity Square, to the 'purple blossom' canopied streets of the Avenues. From early 19th century to dazzling modern architecture, the city captures a vibe that is uniquely African yet compelling to one of any nationality and confirming its aliase of 'Sunshine City'.

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